Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Quick Bites: Wisteria

I'd been meaning to go to Wisteria for ages. It's in walking distance from my place, and I'd heard people say it was there favorite place in town, and yet something kept me from rushing over. Many months later I finally chose it as the right place to entertain the not-quite-in=laws while they were in town for the night.

Shock of all shocks, Wisteria was actually substantially better than many far more hyped up places. It's great in that subtle, everything's great but you aren't going to run out and tell everyone sort of way. Hence my 2 month delay in writing it up!

I rarely order pork because all too often it's bland, but something about Wisteria's version sounded worth a shot. Choice well made - the molasses rubbed pork tenderloin was served over a sweet potato souffle topped with sweet onion, apple and walnut relish - and it was sweet without being cloying, and every bite held a pleasing contrast of flavors and textures (crunchy and smooth and sweet oh my!) There was so many accoutrement that you couldn't even see the pork under it all. There's nothing worse than running out of the delicious additions to a dish that make it interesting. Why settle for a bite of just pork when you can get one that melds apple and crispy onion and pork?

The roasted duck was also a big hit at our table. It had perfectly crisp skin and not too much fattiness to distract from the flavorful meat.

Add to that our charming server Buffy and even a visit from chef, Jason Hill, to see how we were enjoying ourselves, and it was a truly lovely evening. They even let us try a sip of high-end wine before we committed to ordering it. My kind of service!

I can't put my finger on what kept me from raving about this off the bat because honestly it's one of the better Atlanta meals I've had in '09. It's just that kind of low key place that you don't shout about, but you know you can count on it for dependably great food.

471 North Highland Ave.
Atlanta, GA. 30307

Wisteria on Urbanspoon



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