Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Morningside's Food 101 will become Rosebud on July 6. Never fear, the farm fresh cooking you know and love will still be there because Food 101 Chef Ron Eyester actually bought the place and is keeping much the same.
I had the chance to sample some of Eyester's Rosebud menu last week at a media preview, and I'm happy to report that there continues to be much to love on the menu. Chicken Liver Toast was a standout appetizer - the toast was piled high with unbelievably creamy chicken liver, pickles and a port reduction. This was no skimpy appetizer! Fortunately it lacked the metallic aftertaste I so often hate in liver, and liver-lovers around me were proclaiming their appreciation for the dish in between smacks of their lips.
The corn chowder was another major success. The corn had all the bright sweetness of summertime, and the cream chowder was peppered with sweet chunks of crab and the heavenly smokiness of bacon. I knew I had much more food to come and yet it was so good I couldn't resist scooping it up with the homemade crackers and finishing every last spoonful.
On the entree side, a pan roasted halibut was a bit bland, but the Pork Loin was deliciously seared and juicy. I find pork boring sometimes so I often eat it with a fairly hardcore dousing of sauce, but this relatively unadorned pork worked well even with just a side of bacon creamed cabbage. (note to chefs out there, bacon creamed anything sounds pretty damned good!)
The friendly service and affection for locally grown produce remains, so I imagine Chef Eyester's new venture will be just as good if not better than Food 101 has been (and I was a fan of that in the first place). Old Food 101 favorites like fried chicken and shrimp and grits will remain, so whether you're testing out something new or returning for something familiar, I think you'll find something to be excited about at Rosebud.