Monday, February 1, 2010

Restaurant Review: Bocado

Lately I've been feeling a bit blase about Atlanta dining. I just haven't gotten excited about much I've eaten. Fortunately that's not the case at all for Bocado on Atlanta's ever-developing westside. Lunchtime at my office often sends me into fits of dismay and indifference. I simply can't get enthused about the very few restaurants in walking distance, and getting in a car seems like a hassle when everyone just eats at their desk any way. (Sidebar, but whatever happened to fun lunches with your office mates? I used to have that at Bain many years ago, and now I haven't seen people leave their desks in years!)

Fortunately, Bocado is just a short drive away, and I've popped over for lunch a couple of times with little sister and Mr. AT. Their menu is short but manages to pack a whollop. It's the rare menu where nearly everything sounds delicious. Last night I returned again, this time for my brother-in-law's birthday dinner. The menu was largely the same for dinner - heavy on hot sandwiches, with the addition of some creative cocktails.

Everything sounds so good, so the last couple of times I went, we chose 2 entrees and split them both. The hamburger is divine - simply prepared with American cheese and housemade pickles. The beef is juicy and full of flavor and small enough that you can feel sated but not stuffed. On previous visits the garlic herbed fries with ranch were equally heavenly, but last night they seemed to lack salt, a pretty major fry necessity. On a previous visit the roasted poblano & pimento cheese sandwich with bacon, fried green tomato and spicy sauce was a messy, decadent success and the grilled ham and cheese is taken from ordinary to sublime with Dijon sauce, caramelized onions and apples. Seriously, yum, yum and yum.

Other than the fries last night, my only other complaint is that the appetizers were a bit skimpy. Our local berkshire prosciutto appetizer was rather stingy with the pork, making it mostly bread and arugla. The crab fritters were a toothsome combination of crab, apple salad, chiles and apple salad but were a bit on the small side for $14. But these complaints are small - you can get away with some missteps when your entrees are so damned delicious and well-priced.

Much like everything in the burgeoning neighborhood, the restaurant's vibe is industrial and hip. Perfect for lunch for all the surrounding design and creative agencies.

I'm thrilled that Bocado has so impressed me thus far. It's finally a new place I can get excited about, and it's a perfect escape from Spoon/Thumb's Up Diner overload.

Pros:
Creative, compelling menu that is as delicious as it sounds
Stylish interior
Reasonable prices

Cons:
Appetizers not as strong as entrees

887 Howell Mill Road
Atlanta, GA 30318
Phone: 404.815.1399


*Photo credit: Heidi Geldhauser, courtesy of Bocado

Bocado on Urbanspoon

2 comments:

Jeff said...

Hey at least it's not yet another restaurant featuring farm-to-table modern southern food. How many more of those does Atlanta need? Answer: NONE

Mary Campbell said...

I think we should start going out for lunch once a week at the Hizouse...I hate eating at my desk, yet I do it almost everyday.

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