Visit Austrian Christmas Markets

Thanksgiving is a time for family, feasting, and, in our case, a trip to the beautiful cities of Vienna and Salzburg in Austria. With my husband and two daughters, ages 7 and 9, in tow, we explored the Austrian Christmas markets and enjoyed all these two cities offer. This was our second visit to some of the best Christmas markets in Europe, and we were so happy to be back in action after they were closed for the last few years. Read on for our recommendations and itinerary!

Man taking a sip of gluhwein with his wife by his side at Am Hof one of many lovely Austrian Christmas markets — Am Hof market in Vienna

Entrance to Vienna Christmas market, a must-visit European Christmas market — Am Hof market in Vienna

Austrian Christmas Markets – Vienna

Vienna Christmas Markets are rightfully among Europe’s most famous. We started at the Christkindlmarkt at Rathausplatz, one of the largest markets in the city. In addition to the usual stalls selling crafts and food, there was also an ice skating rink to enjoy. This was where I first tasted some of the classic Austrian Christmas treats, like kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes) and kaiserschmarrn (torn pancakes) with plum compote. Sweet treats abound in these markets, and my kids were in heaven sampling the wide variety available.

Austria Christmas Market pretzels and other sweets at a market stand

Austria Christmas Market crafts at a stand at the Schonbrunn Palace Market in Vienna

While Rathausplatz was a popular market, it wasn’t my favorite. I preferred the smaller markets, such as Freyung and Am Hof, where I found some truly unique crafts and ornaments. Another highlight in Vienna was the Stephansplatz market, located in the shadow of the Gothic Stephansdom church. It was lively and energetic, and we also enjoyed the younger, hipper vibe at the Spittelberg market, where we grabbed a drink at one of the many stalls.

Enjoying holiday boozy treats like gluhwein (hot mulled wine) or flavored punch is one of our favorite things to do at a Christmas market. For a small fee, you can also keep each market’s festive mug. We now have quite a collection of mugs from our travels!

Giant Christmas tree and pink lights at a church in Stephansplatz in an Austrian Christmas market in Vienna — Stephansplatz Christmas Market in Vienna

Little girl and mother posing for a photo with mugs at an Austrian Christmas Market at Schonbrunn Palace — Stephansplatz Christmas Market in Vienna

Austria’s Schonbrunn Palace with Kids

One market we couldn’t miss was the one at Schonbrunn Palace. Located in the courtyard outside the palace, this market had perhaps the most elegant crafts of any in Vienna, including several pig-themed ones for my porcine-obsessed 9-year-old. Don’t miss the booth with activities for kids. My daughters loved the scavenger hunt, and I loved having a moment to sip my punch in peace.

We also combined our visit with a tour of both the kids’ museum and the main palace, which was a hit with my daughters. They loved dressing up in costumes at the kids’ museum, while I enjoyed learning more about Austria’s most famous emperor, Franz Ferdinand, and his fascinating wife, Sisi. We even watched Netflix’s The Empress before the trip to better understand their lives. If you want to learn more about Sisi, you can also visit the small but fascinating Sisi Museum in the Hofburg complex to learn more about her glamorous but sad life..

Little girl dressed up in royal costume at Schonbrunn Palace children's museum in Vienna — Dress up at the children’s museum at Schonbrunn Palace

Mother and daughters standing in a giant golden frame in front of Schonbrunn Palace in Vienna during a Christmas Market — Dress up at the children’s museum at Schonbrunn Palace

Dining Out in Vienna with Kids

In addition to these cultural stops, we also made sure to indulge in some of Vienna’s famous coffee salons. We had breakfast at Cafe Central and enjoyed the famous sacchertorte at Cafe Demel. Dinner was a highlight, with exceptional meals at Glacis Beisl (where we feasted on wiener schnitzel and grammel dumplings) and Lugeck, where we enjoyed rye sourdough bread with caramelized creamy butter and delicious Viennese fried chicken. Vienna is a city of immigrants, so we also had a hearty Israeli lunch at Neni am Wasser (cash only).

Austrian Christmas Markets – Salzburg

After a few days in Vienna, we took a train to Salzburg, the city of Mozart and The Sound of Music. Naturally, we had to take the Sound of Music bus tour, a must-do for fans of the movie. We saw places like Mirabelle Palace Gardens, where the Von Trapp kids sang Do Re Mi, and Leopoldskron Palace, which served as the lakeside view of the Von Trapp home.

Despite the dreary weather, the Salzburger Christkindlmarkt was perhaps even more atmospheric than anything we saw in Vienna. Located next to the city’s main cathedral, the market was filled with twinkling lights and carolers, making it the perfect setting for some holiday cheer. I also had the chance to enjoy one of my favorite holiday drinks, a lumumba (basically a boozy hot chocolate). Salzburg was a delight, but 1 night/2 days was plenty for my family.

Two little girls posing in front of the gazebo in Salzburg made famous by the Sound of Music — I am 16 going on 17 – the Sound of Music gazebo

Salzburg's Austrian Christmas Market at night with festive golden banners and twinkling lights — I am 16 going on 17 – the Sound of Music gazebo

My only misstep was paying to go up to Fortress Hohensalzburg after hours on a rainy day. The funicular was enjoyable, and the view was pretty but not enough to justify the cost.

Make it easy and consider a day tour that takes you from Vienna to Salzburg.

Our visit to Austrian Christmas markets over Thanksgiving was memorable and a perfect add-on to several days in Paris. We combined cultural experiences with indulging in the local cuisine and enjoying the festive atmosphere of the Christmas markets.