I spent 2 weeks in Croatia, so I had many delicious meals, but one stands out above the rest. My husband and I joined Marija Papak, her husband Zlatko, and a group of other curious American and Slovenian guests around a long table in the Dubrovnik couple’s outdoor courtyard for a traditional Croatian peka.
Dinner with Marija and Zlatko starts with homemade Croatian aperitifs (rakija) and a charcuterie spread that will blow your mind. Croatian prosciutto (pršut), local sausages and cheeses, olives, and juicy peaches and figs straight from the farmer’s market were gorgeously arrayed on large wooden platters. They might have made a meal all on their own, but they were just the beginning of an epic meal. The aperitifs ranged from fruity to herbal, but all were delicious and packed a kick.
They displayed their garden’s bounty in other appetizers, like a gorgeous tomato tart and a tomato salad that put all American tomatoes to shame. A soft cheese doused in olive oil and made just that morning was a stellar accompaniment. To wash it all down, they liberally poured Croatian wines like the famed red, Plavac Mali. They reappeared in your glass when you weren’t looking.
The main event: a Croatian peka
The main event at Marija and Zlotko’s home is a traditional regional Croatian peka dinner, a hearty slow-cooked meat and potatoes dish made in a bell-shaped vessel in an outdoor wood fire. Zlotko manned the fire throughout the evening, tending to our lamb peka. It was a sweltering job on a sticky hot August night. But the results were well worth the effort. The meat was meltingly tender and the potatoes were both crispy and soaked in the lamb’s juices.
Like your mother, Marija didn’t want anything to go to waste, so she cajoled guests to try less popular parts of the lamb. My husband tucked in for some lamb brains (creamy and delicious, according to him), while a Slovenian guest was the only taker on the lamb’s eyeballs.
Our hostess regaled us with the tale of how these dinners began. She started with an informal dinner for a visiting journalist,. Next up was some serious international coverage in places like the WSJ and National Geographic. Now, she hosts regular dinners for tourists, like us, who were looking for a more authentic experience.
I loved the opportunity to interact with a local family plus meet other food-loving tourists. My husband and I always appreciate an excuse to talk with some new people after we’ve been traveling, just the two of us. There are only so many new topics you can find when you’re together constantly! And the food was incredible across the board. The hosts are gracious, the setting is lovely, and the food is divine. So, this evening was easily one of my favorite food memories while traveling.
Just when everyone was completely stuffed, dessert came. Marija’s homemade apple strudel was just as good as everything else we’d had that evening. Even though I could barely move by that point, I couldn’t resist eating the heavenly figs or ice cream that accompanied it, either. We left the evening fat and happy with new friends and excellent memories.
If eating isn’t enough, you can also learn to make your own Croatian peka dinner.
Want to plan your own trip to Croatia?
Check our 2-week itinerary and guides to visiting Croatia with kids. Also, get more details on visiting Korcula and Hvar. If you want to travel like us, you’ll need a travel advisor with connections to local experts. I can help with that! We can plan your entire schedule, including all hotels, tours, restaurant reservations, ferry tickets, and private transfers.
Don’t miss the rest of our Croatia tips
View our two-week Croatia itinerary.
Read more about Adventurous Tastes’ tips for Hvar , or plan a visit to Korcula.
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